INTERVIEW | Performance versus Sportstyle : how design bridges the gap
We know that most so-called “performance” shoes actually end up on city pavements for daily use. How do you design a shoe that hits two very different targets: the athlete’s biomechanical demands and the city dweller’s walking comfort?
Beyond style and desired codes, moving around a city all day is a sport in itself! Performance must also be analyzed through posture, standing for long periods, repetitive movements, flexibility, foot fatigue, and environmental conditions (how do you stay stylish tomorrow in 38°c temperatures with road surfaces reaching 65°c?).
In shoes, we often talk of “visible innovation” (Nike’s Air or 3D-printed lattice structures). What is the role of design in staging technology so that it becomes a reason for the consumer to buy ?
We buy what resonates with us or feeds our imagination. In both cases, the role of design is to make that message as clear as possible, creating a genuine connection and emotion with the end consumer. Ultimately, it must remain unique and embody the brand’s core values.
While performance obeys strict biomechanical rules, lifestyle obeys the rules of desirability, identity, and street codes. How do Groupe Zebra’s creative studios go about injecting that “cultural relevance” and style that turns a shoe into a true fashion accessory and everyday staple?
Shoes are our physical connection to the ground. They reflect our mood, our intentions, and serve as the anchor for an entire outfit. Of course, the brand plays a major role. Close observation of textile trends, user behaviors, and weak urban/societal signals is an essential ingredient to blend with product performance.
Eco-design is a modern imperative. But between using recycled materials, developing single-material solutions, and meeting shoe durability standards, what are the main technical hurdles Groupe Zebra’sdesign studio must clear to produce a sustainable, scalable sneaker at the right price point?
In an industry dominated by Asian manufacturing, environmental challenges are massive and inherent. The genius of a great design process lies in ‘creating under constraint’. In some cases, it means stagingthe client’s R&D work to turn a technical achievement into a remarkable marketing asset. In other cases, for Groupe Zebra, it means investing in broader, more transformative solutions: such as Matryx® fabric, co-developed with Chamatex Group originally for Babolat, which now powers footwear for the world’s leading performance brands. This journey continued with the launch of ASF 4.0 alongside ChamatexGroup, aiming to build automated local-to-local production units—a truly fully realized eco-design initiative.
In your opinion, what makes a sneaker model transition from a simple product to a “bankable,” timeless cultural icon? What is the “Groupe Zebra touch” in this pursuit of desirability?
At Groupe Zebra, business culture drives everything we do, whether in design, brand strategy, or retail concepts. We work with a structured methodology called Vision Oblique® to activate key growth levers.
A product that becomes a cultural icon develops a distinct personality that leaves a lasting impression. Many iconic shoes are linked to legends who marked their era and audiences—Stan Smith and Air Jordans are prime examples from the world of sport, but the same holds true for rap stars and fashion icons. Nothing guarantees iconic status; it’s the public that embraces and elevates it. Above all, it must carry meaning and resonate with the collective imagination to earn widespread adoption.
Beyond creating an icon, what truly matters is answering consumer aspirations and the team’s ability to translate brand values and codes into an ecosystem that aligns seamlessly with market trends.